KILIÇLAR VALLEY
If you continue your tour on the high plateau behind Tokalı Church
you will reach fascinating Kılıçlar Valley (kılıç means "sword"
in Turkish, and the valley gets its name from the sword-like fairy
chimneys). The valley of Kılıçlar is one of the places in Cappadocia
for trekkers, with its high cliffs, a tunnel which forms part of an
old drainage system, cave dwellings, cultivated vineyards and a very
outstanding church.
It is rather difficult to descend to the Kılıçlar Valley from the
high plateau behind the Tokalı Church
and it is advisable to take the road down from the Göreme Open-Air
Museum to Göreme for about 300 meters and then turn right to enter
the valley.
KILIÇLAR KILISESI (THE CHURCH OF SWORDS)
The
church stands approximately 400 m north of Göreme Open-Air Museum
in the valley. The key can be obtained from the caretakers in the
Museum.
Kılıçlar Kilisesi is a cross-in-square church with four free-standing
columns and a large dome resting on them. The eastern corner bays
are also domed. It has three apses, the middle one having two seats
for the priests.
This is one of the largest churches in Cappadocia, painted shortly
before 900,and contains very beautiful frescoes. The Infancy (early
childhood of Christ), Miracles, Sufferings, Ascension and the
Burying of Virgin Mary are depicted masterfully and vividly coloured.
THE CHURCH OF THE VIRGIN MARY
(KUŞLUK KILISESI)
It is situated on the slope where the Swords
Valley (Kılıçlar Vadisi) starts. His way is through a tunnel-like
narrow passage on the path to the valley. This is one of the most
beautiful buildings in the Göreme region. Christ is depicted in the
apse, between the Virgin Mary and St. John the Baptist. Monograms
of most of the figures are inscribed. Scenes from the Bible are depicted
realistically. The frescoes dated to the first half of the 11th century,
are very vividly coloured. The building is in danger of collapse,
due to the erosion.
One of the loveliest churches in Göreme, 300 meters from the museum
proper on a slope behind the Tokalı Church via a footpath. Where the
slope overlooks the Valley of the Swords there is a tunnel-like narrow
passageway directly to the church.
The architecture is unusual, incorporating a nave covered by two
narrow parallel vaults. The chancel and connecting apse are higher
than the nave, just as in the Tokalı Church, but here they are divided
off by columns and arcades. Despite its intricate plan the church
is small, giving it an almost cozy, chapel-like feel. Its paintings
are another source of pleasure, with warm reds and yellows contoured
in black upon cool blue-gray backgrounds. One saddening fact is that
erosion has deeply gouged this church.
- Source:
- A Complete Guide to Cappadocia
by Ozan Sağdıç
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